A Goan Retreat

Our 15-hour train ride from Mumbai to Goa was fantastic, but then it got delayed. We reached our destination very late at night, exhausted and desperately seeking a place to sleep. I opened my travel Bible (Lonely Planet) and spotted an affordable place on the beach. A rickshaw gave us a ride and stopped, pointing us at the sand: “Walk, walk.” We paid him the 150 INR, put on our packs, and started walking. The darkness hid the surroundings, and the waves secretly sang along our sides. After 5 minutes of sandy massages under our tired feet, we arrived at our cocohut in Benaulim Beach, Goa.

A peaceful morning melody transitioned from my dreams to awakening. The waves washing on the shore made my eyes open to a new day. Opening the door of my hut, I admired the scenic view in front of me. Finally, the beach and its sea! The vacation mode is here – a time for relaxation, beaching, swimming, tanning, snacking on fresh seafood, sipping tropical drinks, or simply doing nothing. After a month of traveling by local buses, chasing trains, navigating big city traffic, and crossing streets with our hearts in our hands, it’s nice to finally let go of any possible stress and rest.

Goa, nestled on the west side of India along the Arabian Sea, with its sandy beaches, cocohut culture, and laid-back residents, makes it a perfect destination for everyone. A mix of Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, and Catholicism is found here, along with Portuguese colonial architecture reflecting a rich history. Houses painted in purple, orange, green apple, yellow, and bright blue dot the landscape. Palm trees line the beaches, and the sea’s warm waters invite for a good swim. In the mornings, fishermen arrive on the beach with their enormous nets full of small fish, crabs, and sea snakes (yes, 4-foot sea snakes). The women fill their baskets with the creatures and carry them on their heads to be dried and then sold at the market. My eyes are amazed by this morning work and the team effort, with both males and females putting force and energy into every detail.

Another way to work towards relaxation is to get involved in some yoga. I booked a spot at a yoga retreat and dedicated my mornings and afternoons to meditation, yoga, and really good food. At Ashiyana Yoga in Mandrem Beach, they offer accommodation in a Mango Tree House, two yoga classes a day, and buffet meals (some of the best vegetarian food I’ve ever tasted). A retreat that drains bad energy, rejuvenates mind and body, and purifies the soul.

After these relaxing days at the retreat, we make our way back down to Benaulim, where we enjoy some drinks with Canadian tourists to celebrate Halloween. Our costumes evolve into question marks for the other guests, as we are the only ones dressed up for this occasion.

After a couple of days of chilling and simply doing nothing, we decide to migrate south and explore another area. So we make our way to Palolem Beach, where we spend a few days basking in the tropical sun. One morning, we meet with a fisherman and his son in their 21-foot wood outrigger. We cruise along some islands and explore the surroundings. Suddenly, our captain spots a dolphin and starts singing for joy and excitement! “Mary had a little lamb, little lamb, little lamb”! There it is, this beautiful aquatic creature gently caressing the surface of the water. And another one! And more! And dozens! They are everywhere! 50, maybe 100! “You’re lucky, my friends, you’re so lucky”! This is amazing! With a beating heart and shaking hands, we leave the fear in the boat and let our excitement jump in the water. I am so damn scared, but it is a great feeling. These wild dolphins are not very curious about us; they are more preoccupied by their search for breakfast. But the sensation of swimming in the middle of a large pod, in the open Arabian Sea under the light of the sunrise… wow, a $5 well spent indeed!

We spend our last days in Goa watching the kids getting ready for their annual festival. Diwali is a Hindu event celebrating the festival of lights, but everyone is welcomed to participate. People exchange gifts, sweet treats, and light candles and fireworks to guide Lord Rama home from exile. The houses are cleaned, and believers dress well, waiting for Lord Leksha (Goddess of Wealth) to come visit their house and hopefully bring good luck (money). Our last night in our hut in Palolem is noisy and very explosive. We yawn to the next day and pack our bags for Kerala.

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