Under a Keralan Sun

Cruising through the backwaters of Kerala is like a gentle treat you absolutely deserve while exploring India. Jumping aboard a traditional houseboat designed like a rice barge, we dive into these tender moments of pure serenity and quietness.

With a network of waterways snaking from the coast to the inland, the state has embraced this unique way of traveling the canals using houseboats. The trip consists of a leisurely cruise through tranquil canals with delicious authentic Keralan food prepared by the captain, along with a night or two aboard, sleeping on the water.

As we slowly cruise along rows of palm trees, rice fields, and villages, we catch glimpses of everyday life – a man shaving his beard, a lady washing a load of clothes, children splashing each other, and a man washing his cow. The canals serve as a shared space for personal hygiene, fun, and care. The small houses and their villagers, once happily isolated, are now exposed by our voyeurism.

The clouds blanket the skies, releasing multiple tiny molecules of H2O. Heavy rain cleanses the air and refreshes the atmosphere, the drops falling vigorously, resembling a thunderous anger. The sound of the falling rain fills my ears, the freshness of the air cleans my lungs, and caresses my nostrils. There’s nowhere else I want to be…

After the houseboat experience, we board a local bus and travel south for about four hours. High cliffs surround the sea, the waves are strong and aggressive, and the sand is black. Welcome to Black Sand Beach in Varkala, a quieter alternative to the bustling main beach. Hotels and restaurants line up along the cliffs, offering breathtaking views and a wide selection of fresh fish. Although the wine is a bit pricey, fresh cocktails are a good alternative, and a mojito always pairs well with fish.

Keralan people are incredibly kind – very friendly, smiley, and welcoming. Born and raised in the most socially advanced state in India, most of them went to school and learned to speak English. Marriage is by choice and is proven with the love found in the air: couples cover themselves with tender kisses and soft words. Their generosity is as contagious as their head-wobble – that strange habit of moving their head like a bobblehead. Yes, No, Maybe… who knows what they really mean?

Kerala’s communism, symbolized by the hammer and sickle, brought about a more equitable distribution of land and income. A focus on infrastructure, health, and education brings a promising future for this successful and beautiful state.

After a final seafood dinner watching the sun go down in Kerala, we prepare for another departure. This time, we will be traveling south to the tip of the Indian subcontinent: Kanyakumari, where the three seas meet.

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