ocean – Footloose Diary

When the Ocean Tests You, and the Island Holds You

Published on July 14, 2025September 28, 2025 by CapucineLeave a comment

Jedediah Island

11/07 — Duke’s Marina (Sechelt) to Buccaneer Bay (Thormanby Island)

Arrived at Duke’s Marina around 7:30 pm with more gear than expected. Cloudy skies with pockets of sunshine as we set out.

The horizon opened into sunset by the time we anchored at Buccaneer Bay. Smoked bacon and ravioli with pesto for dinner, and a bottle of red.

A tranquil seascape at sunset, featuring calm waters reflecting the sky with scattered clouds and rays of light breaking through, hinting at distant land on the horizon. — Beautiful evening on our way to Buccaneer Bay, Thormanby Island

Then the full moon rose under Sea Goat’s constellation. I sat at the end of the boat watching stars move across the sky. The moon was so bright. Is this you, Juno? Lady?

How magical is this!

Thank you.

⸻

12/07 — Buccaneer Bay (Thormanby Island) to Codfish Bay (Jedediah Island)

Howly guacamole.

Woke groggy to a ceiling that looked like a mosquito massacre. Over twenty didn’t make it through the night, their bloody remains marking the beige carpet.

Waves were picking up. Out the window, trees swayed and the mast light of our neighbour’s sailboat bobbed. At least we’d anchored well.

Coffee first, then anchor up. I need to get faster at that. Getting out of the bay was easy. What came next was not.

Swells rolled in. This is ocean, baby. I kept telling myself this is what I wanted, but maybe not today.

It was rough. Very rough. Terrifying. I put my life jacket on. That’s what they’re for, right? I go quiet. My mind races to my mom, to the ones I love, to the great life I’ve had — highs and lows included. I thought of Lady and Juno. Maybe it’s okay. Maybe if today’s the day, I’ll be with them again.

Fuck.

Engine problems.

We approached Texada Island as the swells became full waves. At least the engine held through the worst of it, but we still weren’t there yet.

Ta ta ta ta.

We crept slowly toward our destination.

Finally, we found the bay. Secluded. Protected. Only two boats, and one left, giving us the prime anchorage.

We made it. At least for now. Time for a Caesar, then we’ll explore the island. That’s what we came for, after all.

⸻

11/07 — Jedediah Island

Beauty morning at Codfish Bay. We’d scored prime real estate in the sheltered bay on the southeast side of the island. The water here is calm and glassy, framed by rocky shores and thick forest that opens into wide meadows.

Cooked breakfast, then set out to explore. Today was for no worries. We’d stay anchored here.

View of Codfish and Home Bays on Jedediah Island

Jedediah is only reachable by water, and solitude arrives the moment you step ashore. Long before homesteaders, these shores were part of Coast Salish life; a tidal fish weir in the shallows still shows how people once lived and gathered here. In 1949, Al and Mary Palmer came to the island, carving out a homestead where they lived for decades before it was purchased by the Province in 1995. When the people left, some of the goats and sheep remained, turning feral and reshaping the meadows in their own way. Visitors still speak of Will, the horse who lived out his days here.

The trail wound north through forest into an open field. I searched for the goats and sheep, but saw only their traces — droppings, faint paths through the grass. I found Will’s grave, then others, small markers of lives remembered in silence.

On the southeast side, the old cabin still stand, once inhabited by the island’s homesteaders and now slowly weathering back into the land. I’ve always been drawn to cabins — the way they hold onto stories even as time wears them down, balancing what was with what is.

Near the barn, an orchard of apples and pears still leans into the grass as if waiting for someone who never came back — a quiet reminder that those who lived and loved here left more than footprints.

It felt good to stretch the legs. Back at the boat for some appies and chilled wine — though the cooler really needs replacing, drinks warm up too fast. Adding that to the list.

Took the dinghy for a sunset cruise around Rabbit Island.

Off to bed early. Tomorrow we’ll be up before the storm rolls in. Let’s hope Sea Goat will take us home.

⸻

13/07 — Codfish Bay (Jedediah Island) to Duke’s Marina (Sechelt)

Up at 5:30 am. The other boats had already slipped away. The storm was on its way.

Anchor up, slow cruise back. The motor still wouldn’t give us much speed.

The sunrise was beautiful, waters calm. Saw two humpbacks moving in the distance.

Made it in before the weather.

Travelling south following the Sunshine Coast

The Beginning

Published on July 6, 2025September 28, 2025 by CapucineLeave a comment

Thormanby & Texada Islands

04/07 — Duke’s Marina (Sechelt) to Buccaneer Bay (Thormanby Island)

At Duke’s Marina, the tide was low and the ramp stretched steep, with seaweed drifting in the clear water and purple starfish fastened to the pilings. We stowed our bags into a wheelbarrow and trundled down to the dock, something I had always wanted to do. First time loading up, first time heading out. Sea Goat waiting below felt like the start of everything.

She still carries Maria on her stern, but to us she is already Sea Goat. The name surfaced in a conversation with my mom, a quiet nod to our Capricorn stars and our love for both the mountains and the sea. It is said that changing a boat’s name without the proper ritual can anger the sea gods, so for now her new name is only spoken between us.

We pushed off at dusk. The water was calm and easy, only the hum of the motor and the occasional ripple. The sun set straight ahead, casting gold and pink across the Malaspina Strait.

On the Malaspina Strait, from Secret Cove to Thormanby

A cool breeze came up as we moved, carrying cedar from the shore mixed with salt from the water. It was exactly the kind of beginning we had hoped for, smooth and quiet, with the evening light pulling us toward Buccaneer Bay.

Thormanby’s Buccaneer Bay is known for its long sandy beaches and its safe, sheltered anchorage. Even from the water you can tell why people fall for it — the stretch of sand, the quiet protection of the cove, the soft pull of summer gathering here year after year.

A scenic view of a calm bay with a small boat anchored in shallow water, surrounded by sandy beaches and a forested island in the background. — Sea Goat anchored at Buccaneer Bay, Thormanby Island

05/07 — Buccaneer Bay (Thormanby Island) to Anderson Bay (Texada Island)

Woke to still, shallow water. Very shallow. Too shallow. We’d anchored just outside the deep channel, close to the sand stretching out with the low tide. Time to move. Fast. We won’t make that mistake again.

Pulled anchor and headed for deeper water. Drifted toward Texada Island for a couple of hours. Coffee brewing, sun warming up, air salty and clean. Let the day start slow.

Anderson Bay sits on the southeast tip of Texada Island. It’s quiet, tucked in, and well-sheltered when the wind comes from the north side. The water is clear green along the shore and fades into a deep blue further out. The warm pine scent from the forest hangs in the air.

Anchored at Anderson Bay, Texada Island.

We anchored for the day and watched eagles circling overhead while fishing boats hummed past.

Two bald eagles perched on a tree branch surrounded by green foliage under a clear blue sky. — Neigbour watch

On the distant shore, a little otter appeared. She slipped into the water and swam toward us, curious. Pirouetting in the waves, juggling her meal, she floated on her back, paddling slow and snacking on little fish. Otta will be her name. I hope I see her again.

A curious otter floating on its back in calm blue waters, playfully snacking on fish. — Otta the otter playfully snacking on fish.

We didn’t make it to shore, but next time for sure.

Headed back to Buccaneer Bay for the night, and this time we’ll set the anchor right.

Hornby Island for a Family Vacation

Published on August 31, 2015November 2, 2023 by Capucine3 Comments

Raised by a single mother and with an older brother that took on his freedom filled life as soon as I was born, I never really had the chance to understand the term “family vacation”. Of course my mom always made sure we would go on road-trips and explore the beautiful corners and cultural gems of the province of Quebec. It was always a memorable mother-daughter vacation, sometimes tagged with our furry friends.

My brother settled in British Columbia 15 years ago where he met his wife and her family. My first solo flight was when I was 15, to go and visit him on the other side of the country. I got really close to this new circle, a reconstructed family of many siblings. Now that my brother and I both live in the province, he on the island, and I in the mountains, we don’t see each other as often as we wish, but I try to commit to once a year since he now has two beautiful blooming boys. So, when my brother and his wife invited me to their annual family vacation on Hornby Island, there was no way I could miss this special reunion.

We left Whistler on Friday afternoon after work. We boarded the 5:20pm ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay. The 1:40min scenic ride through the Gulf Islands was refreshing and relaxing, soothing a long work week.

Once in Nanaimo, we drove north on Highway BC-19A. I had booked a campsite at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park, just to make the trip less cumbersome and more enjoyable. Rathtrevor Park is located along the shoreline, in the city of Parksville. The campground is very clean and the sites are large, well-maintained and just few steps from the beach.

In the morning, Juno and I went for a stroll. We traversed the short path to the beach across an old-growth forest. The low tide left us with many treasures to find on the golden sand. I took deep breathes and soaked in the fresh air.

After everything was packed up, we head back on the Oceanside Highway and drove north towards Buckley Bay. We hopped on the ferry towards Denman. Then drove accross the island and took another 10min-ferry onto Hornby.

Hornby Island has a small community of less than 1,000 residents, mostly artists, retirees, bohemians, and any lovers of the remote rural island life. We followed the road that hugged the sandstone shorelines, making our way to the northeast of the island. We arrived at Tribune Bay Campground, where we set up camp. The clouds slowly covered the sky, predicting a heavy rain. We set up a large tarp above our site, making our cozy home for the weekend.

The rain arrived at the same time as my family. We greeted under the protecting trees. We built a shelter from pop-up tents and tarps where we found dry refuge for the afternoon. After dinner we sat around the fire-pit, catching up with the grown-ups while grandma told stories to the kids.

The weather cleared out the next morning and we spent the day at Tribune Bay Beach. The kids played in the waves, leftover from the stormy weather.

In the evening we headed to the Pizza Galore. We sat on blankets on the soft grass in the middle of an orchard. Under an apple tree we opened our bottle of wine and enjoyed delicious homemade pizzas. A live band paired our meals with notes of beautiful music while kids played hide and seek, and others played boardgames under the trees.

The sunbeams scattered the sky. We spent another night around the fire pit, telling stories and playing games. And when the night reached its deep darkness, we took a stroll on the beach. We watched the constellations grace the night as the shooting stars ignited one by one.

We woke up to a stunning sky. The rain evaporated from the heating ground. The kids rushed through breakfast, ready to hit the beach. We headed to Helliwell Beach, located on a headland at the southeast of the island. The sand is white, the beach endless, and the water of a crystal clear blue I have never seen in Canada.

It was a beautiful day skimboarding, kayaking and paddleboarding.

The girls even opened up a sand spa for anyone keen of a natural seaside massage.

It was time for me to head back. I kissed and hugged deeply everyone goodbye. As we drove away, I waived a last farewell to my brother still standing on the beach watching me depart.

The 3 ferries home gave me the time and the space to imprint all those beautiful memories I had made. I thought about my dear mother, who I wished could’ve made the trip from the East. I am so privileged to have the mother and the brother that I have, along with all my consanguinity family. I am also so grateful to be part of this circle of people that I have met at 15 years old, half way through my current life. I hope to many more family vacations.

Whether they are your parents, sibblings, family members, affinities, friends, or whoever with there is a sense of belonging, unconditional love, mutual respect and care, acknowledge who those people are and make time for them, as often as you can. Family is not an important thing. It’s everything. Now if you excuse me, I’m going to call my mother.

Tofino: The Ocean Is Calling And I Must Go

Published on June 12, 2015November 2, 2023 by CapucineLeave a comment

There is a place on the Pacific Coast of Vancouver Island that was built for dreamers: a place where the salty air is curing, the cold ocean is rejuvenating, and the lush rainforests are reinvigorating. A place where people go to gaze at the ocean in peace, and experience nature at its humblest best.

Tofino is indeed an oasis of nature’s wonders. With its beautiful old-growth coastal forests, abundant wildlife and miles of sandy beaches, this little surfing town attracts many surfers, outdoor adventurers, soul searchers, and nature lovers every year.

There’s been a lot of change recently in my life, and after a long winter spent in the mountains, I felt an overpowering urge to be by the ocean. So when Corianne showed interest for a weekend getaway, there were no doubts we had to make a trip to Tofino. We left Whistler at dusk on Saturday morning and headed South to catch the 8:30am BC Ferry leaving Horseshoe Bay towards Nanaimo. The 2 hour-ride through the Gulf Islands was scenic, as we sat in the rear deck, sheltered from the wind, exposed to the morning sun.

Once in Nanaimo, we drove north on Highway 19, a car loaded with camping gear and a sun blasting in the sky. We crossed the island on Highway 4 towards Clayoquot Sound, meandering through a coastal forest of old-growth oaks. The beams of the afternoon sun poured through trees and fog. We travelled the road through the rugged coast, ascending and descending, swirling and twisting, until we arrived to the coastal town of Tofino.

We had booked camping on the beach at Bella Pacifica located on Mackenzie Beach. We set up camp and retired on the beach for the evening as the sun was setting. Along with wine, cheeses, and charcuterie, we admired the hues of the sky as the sun retired behind the evening haze.

We woke up early the next morning to another beautiful and sunny day. We brewed fresh coffee and took a stroll on the beach. As we shuffled our bare feet in the sand, we found ourselves spectators of a rare scene: the beach was blanketed by thousands of blue tiny creatures called “sail jellyfish”, scientifically known as Velella velella, that washed ashore during the night. At the rocky shores of the bay, we explored the tidal pools at low tide and spotted many starfishes and sea anemones. Amongst curious children, we were fascinated by the stunning diversity of marine life.

There was a short hike I’ve heard of and really wanted to do. It wasn’t on any map, so after asking a few locals, I had enough clues to hunt for the hidden trail. I couldn’t be more happier when I found the entrance, and I couldn’t be more excited when we reached the top, overlooking the panoramic view of Cox Bay.

After a lunch of fresh tuna tacos at Tacofino, we headed back to Cox Bay with our surfing gear. Time to slip in the wetsuit, put on the booties, strap the leash and head to the water. I am no surfer. But I can play in the waves. And here in Tofino, there is no better place than its beautiful beachbreaks and high waist waves.

I took a moment to embrace my surroundings: The water slipping off my forehead, the air cleansing my lungs, the setting sun warming up my skin, and a setting to dream for. I glanced at my friends, who glanced back, nodding for this inspiring moment we shared. We spent the night by the campfire on the beach, along with friends we met. The moon rose and settled in the sky, full and ripe, stretching its light far in the distance. We watched fireworks exploding in the clear sky while the sounds of drums resonated through the night.

We woke up the second morning to an overcast sky. After we packed our gear we made a stop to the beach. Corianne went for a last surf session while I watched her played in the wave under the rain, sitting cozy in my camping chair.

We headed back to Nanaimo in the afternoon to catch the last ferry. The sun eventually broke through the clouds, taking over the sky. The ferry ride made us speechless, as we watched the sunrays painting the sky, as it retired behind the islands. Coastal living offers wonderful benefits. Not only does spending time by the ocean balances the body and creates physical harmony, but it also allows us to take a moment to pause, reflect, meditate and embrace solitude. It brings us to a tranquil state of mindfulness and awareness, and gives a sense of freedom. It clarifies the mind and opens up to new perspectives. There is something healing about looking at the ocean, listening to the soothing sound of the waves pounding on the shore and breathing the invigorating fresh air. So if you ever need to calm your mind, improve your physical health or find inspiration and purpose to your life, perhaps all you need is a holistic dose of Vitamin Sea.

Bringing Sunday Funday to a Whole New Level

Published on March 14, 2015August 17, 2022 by Capucine9 Comments

When Julie called me and asked what were my plans for the following day, I answered: “Well, it’s Sunday, so something outdoors and fun!” She replied with a smirk in her voice: “Excellent, I’ve got the perfect adventure for us! Just pack a bag with a bathing suit, a towel, and a nice bottle of champagne.”

Julie is one of my closest friends. We met in the mountains of Whistler ten years ago, and shared many adventures since. From snowboarding magnificient terrain, breaking ice canoeing in the winter, backpacking Central America and road tripping Maui, Hawaii, Julie and I are together an adventurous team, always thirsty for new discoveries and experiences.

I was so excited and intrigued by what she could possibly have in mind. It was hard to fall asleep that night. When the next day came, I jumped out of bed overly enthusiastic, and ran over to Julie’s. Indeed, she had the best Sunday Funday plan: “We’re going to the hot springs!’’

-“The ones that are now inaccessible?’’ I questioned.

-“Yes, that’s why we’re gonna take a helicopter!”

OH MY! I’ve been in a couple heli rides before. One in Cayman Islands when I lived there, as part of advertising, and one above the Garibaldi Range to pick up my boyfriend that built a hiking trail there at the time. However, I’ve never flown over my town, and especially not to the hot springs. Last time I went to Meager Creek Hot Springs, it was by snowmobile, before the bridge wiped out in 2009 due to a destructive mudslide, the second largest landslide in Canadian history. The idea to fly above my home mountain range and access secluded hot natural pools exceeded my expectations of this Sunday adventure. It is a privilege to have friends with good connections.

Our two helicopters departed the grounds of Whistler, on a beautiful sunny Sunday morning of March. We elevated above the trees and flew amongst curious birds in a cloudless sky. We headed North-West towards the Meager Creek Hot Springs, flying over the impressive volcanic peaks and expansive ice fields of the Pemberton Ice Cap (no wonder why so many films and TV shows were filmed here). This enchanting and scenic flight above towering mountains made me feel so impossibly small, yet so alive.

As we approached the valley, I could see the heart shape of the main pool.

We landed on a narrow patch of grass, beside the creek in a midst of a beautiful green forest. We walked the sand path towards the pools. The heat steamed through the grounds as we approached the springs.

Meager Creek Hot Springs is located in the southern Pacific Ranges of the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. The beautiful constructed pools are fed from the geothermal vents of the Mount Meager massif on its north side.

The water was hot, but soothing and revitalizing. We popped the champagne, bottle after bottle. It’s Sunday Funday after all.

As the sun slowly arched down behind the mountains, we packed our belongings and hopped aboard the crafts. We flew over the Pemberton Icefields once more and contemplated the alpenglow, a stunning rosy light suffusing the snow-covered mountain peaks below.

There was one last surprise before returning home: a must stop on a beach to watch the sun set over the ocean.

We flew South-West towards the water, following a setting sun. As we approached the Strait of Georgia near the head of Jervis Inlet, we flew over the granite walled gorge through the snow-capped mountains erecting sharply from the edge of the water. There we found the gem that is Princess Louisa Inlet.

We landed on the deserted beach and put our toes in the cooling sand.

We cracked the last bottle of champagne, and as we gazed at the sun shying away behind the Pacific Ocean, we reminisced about our day, our new friends, and our adventure, processing the impressive beauties we’ve seen and the glories of life we fully experienced.