Author: Capucine

Passionate traveller, photography enthusiast, food and wine lover, footloose wanderer. I have itchy feet and my heart and soul are always on the road.

Marrakech: A City of Rich History and Everyday Realities

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The impressive red-walled medina of Marrakech is a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets teeming with the vibrant energy of daily life. Here, locals navigate the bustling chaos, with children herding donkeys and market stalls overflowing with textiles, handcrafted pottery, and the enticing aromas of spices. Vendors call out to passersby, inviting them to explore their wares, while each turn in the cobblestone paths leads to lively souks where the rich culture coexists with the stark realities of life.

Despite visible hardships, this 11th-century city offers breathtaking beauty and numerous opportunities for exploration. Once the capital of the kingdom, Marrakech is now a thriving economic hub, attracting visitors from around the world. Known as the “Red City” for its stunning sandstone architecture, it serves as a vital cultural, religious, and trading centre for the Maghreb and sub-Saharan Africa.

As you navigate the medina, you’ll encounter the dazzling colours of traditional textiles fluttering in the aromatic air, the hypnotic sounds of musicians playing soulful melodies, and the serene beauty of hidden gardens that provide a tranquil escape. In this enchanting place, one might wonder: is it truly magic, or merely the captivating spirit of a city that enfolds its spell on the heart and soul?

Exploring the Medina

To fully appreciate the medina, avoid the temptation to get lost for fun. Instead, grab a map and familiarize yourself with the area. The fortified city is an endless maze that can lead to less desirable places—areas you may not want to visit. If you stay around the Jemaa el-Fnaa square and the souks, you’ll have plenty of streets to explore, filled with vibrant markets and eye-popping sights.

Tip: Don’t follow the directions to the square from the souk; they can mislead you and take you on a longer route around the market. From the souks, keep to the right to find your way back to the square.

Market Adventures: Tips for the Smart Shopper

The souks are a panoply of alleyways lined with tiny retail cubicles. Each section specializes in local goods: carpets, leather products, crafts, pottery, blankets, thuya woodwork, and more. Marrakech also hosts the largest traditional Berber souk in Morocco.

Before spending your dirhams, make sure to put on your “smart shopper shoes.” Vendors will try to get as many bills from you as possible. Here are some tips to navigate the shopping experience:

  • When entering a store, don’t look directly at the items, especially if you’re interested in something. Appear wide-eyed but uninterested.
  • Once you’re certain about buying something, take a closer look. The vendor will be beside you in seconds.
  • Ask for the price, then offer about one-quarter of their starting price. Expect to settle somewhere in between their initial number and yours.
  • If the vendor doesn’t meet you halfway or stays firm on a high price, start to walk away. More often than not, they will follow and agree to your price.

For example, if you want to buy a pair of babouches (Moroccan shoes) and the seller starts at 150 dirhams, offer 50 dirhams. They may counter with 120 dirhams, and you can respond with 70. Continue until you meet at a fair price—don’t be afraid to walk away if necessary!

Tranquil Retreats: Riads as Oases

Riads in bustling Marrakech are oases of peace. Open a wooden door, and you enter a paradise for travellers. Relax on a comfortable sofa in the open-air courtyard, surrounded by orange trees and birds. Breakfast, including freshly squeezed orange juice and Moroccan crepes, is often served on the terrace. You can also request dinner, prepared with fresh ingredients sourced the same day—pastillas were my favourite!

At Riad Laila, breakfast is enjoyed in the garden, while dinner is served poolside. And at Riad Dar Rmane, Rachida ensures a memorable stay. You’ll be treated to dates, dried apricots, cashews, and olives with a glass of wine as you relax on a lounge chair on the roof terrace. If you order dinner before 2 p.m., she’ll shop for the freshest ingredients and serve a delicious meal in the open-air living room, complete with a bed of petals.

Pastilla

Balancing Marrakech’s Chaos: Activities Beyond the City

Cooking Delights

If you need a break from the hustle and bustle of the Red City, consider enrolling in a cooking class. Spend the day learning about spices and how to prepare authentic Moroccan dishes. You’ll enjoy your culinary creations in a garden setting with fellow students—perhaps with a glass of wine. For more information, visit Michel’s website at www.faimdepices.com.

Majestic Majorelle Gardens: A Tranquil Oasis

Just a few minutes’ walk from one of the northern entrances of the medina, you’ll find the beautiful Majorelle Gardens. Designed in the 1920s and 1930s by French artist Jacques Majorelle, it’s now a famous tourist attraction. French designer Yves Saint Laurent purchased the garden in 1980, and when he passed away in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the rose garden. A memorial now stands on a pedestal with a plaque bearing his name to honour his legacy. “It is a way for artists to live on…”

Rejuvenate at Marrakech’s Spas

And why not treat yourself to a spa day at the end of your stay? Marrakech has a variety of spas offering massages, facials, body treatments, and beauty services. Finish your experience in a traditional hammam—try Hammam 1001 Nuits, located at the entrance of Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Ethical Considerations: Beyond Tourist Traps

The raw reality is evident and difficult to admit. From wealthy tourists photographing poverty to aggressive haggling over sales, tourism’s impact on the people of Marrakech is significant and complex. Some aspects, like the snake charmers, involve cruelty. The snakes, tranquilized and sewn at the mouth to prevent bites, stand straight out of fear. These endangered animals rarely survive more than three months. Similarly, the “cute” monkeys endure a cruel life. Taken from their mothers at a young age, they undergo harsh training, often involving chains and deprivation, to perform tricks for tourists. Their teeth are pulled out, and they are kept in cramped boxes, suffering from heat stroke and illness. At night, they are forced to entertain, all for a photo-op with smiling tourists.

Please, be mindful of the animals’ suffering. Avoid supporting these tourist traps. Marrakech has so much more to offer than animal cruelty. Be a conscientious traveller. If you wish to help, consider donating to organizations like the Fondation Helga Heidrich SOS Animaux.

Conclusion: Marrakech’s Unique Charms

If you’re looking for an adventure that pushes your boundaries and immerses you in vibrant culture—visit Marrakech, the city that never sleeps. Wander through colourful alleys lit by candles and lanterns, and navigate the smoky cooking stands in the square. Let the rhythms of local musicians and the prayer calls from the minarets enchant you. Perhaps you’ll discover a bit of magic that will intrigue your senses and linger in your heart long after you’ve left.

Photos: Gran Canaria

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Photographs taken in Gran Canaria, Canary Islands. Read the full story: Vacationing in Gran Canaria.

“You are free to dream as big as you want, but always remember that every big dream comes with some big responsibilities. So be willing and courageous enough to step out of your comfort zone.” ― Edmond Mbiaka,

Easy and Breezy in Essaouira

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The soaring and screaming of the seagulls accompany the melody of the sea. Inside the medina, white are the walls and majorelle blue are the old windows and wooden doors we see. The air is fresh, the pace is slow, the colours are soft and the people are hassle-free.

Essaouira is a small fishing town located in the western coast of Morocco. It is inhabited by Arabs, Berbers and Gwanas, giving a rich cultural mix to the town. The bay is partially shielded by the island of Mogador protecting the peaceful harbour against strong winds coming from the sea. The medina, wrapped around with white ramparts, is a UNESCO World Heritage listed city making the town a must to add to your itinerary.

Shopping the tranquil alleys of the medina is a great option for souvenir hunting. The non-agressive vendors make it for a nice and peaceful stroll, giving you the proper time to shop stress-free. Follow the aroma of spices floating in the damp sea air. Search for argan oil, natural medicine, Thuya crafts or maroquinerie while shopping in a mellow atmosphere. The prices are already low, but there is always room for bargaining.

There are several restaurants offering Moroccan cuisine, although a lot are also serving European meals, such as pastas, pizzas, sandwiches and fries. Most riad will include Moroccan breakfast with the stay. Most will also offer a homemade dinner, at a fairly good price. Eating at the riad is a very attractive option. While dining in the comfort of your hotel, you will taste authentic dishes made out of fresh local ingredients (purchased on the same day). If they don’t sell alcohol, they will most likely let you bring a bottle of wine to enjoy with dinner. It is a cheap, convenient and delicious option!

Feline strollers seem better nourished and healthier than other Moroccan cities. Volunteers come twice a year to fix the females. Restaurants also spoil the furry companions with left-over foods and fresh water.

People don’t come to Essaouira for a sun vacation. Even though it is shinning here most days of the year, the town holds strong marine winds that could make some visitors unpleased and bothered. With an approximate 25km/h wind everyday, the town is known as the character wind city of Africa and has grown in becoming one of the best place to come windsurfing. Hundreds are seen defeating the wind, jumping the waves, and racing the gulls. I won’t suggest having a picnic on the beach with that kind of air current, unless you like crunchy bits in your sandwich. However, a few restaurants offer a good break from the wind, offering comfort food and refreshings.

At the end of the beach, camels and horses are found, ready to provide you with a scenic ride along sand dunes while admiring the sun setting over the ocean. If the idea doesn’t attract you that much, the images of these gorgeous animals strolling in front of the sunset make up for great pictures.

Essaouira is a purely tranquil holiday. Stroll the hassle-free medina, eat the catch of the day on the quay, have a mint tea on one of the terrace watching people go by, take culinary lessons with the cook at your riad, take a walk on the beach, admire stunning sunsets while sitting on a camel back. This little fishing town is a perfect retreat by the sea (and a natural exfoliant).

Rabat: Exploring the Neighbourhood

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I’ve been in Rabat for already 2 weeks and I haven’t been further than the ramparts of the medina. So Lisa (my volunteering partner) and I decided to stay in the capital this weekend and explore the surroundings.

I can’t believe I haven’t left the medina. All this time I had the ocean right nearby! We followed the seawall towards the Tour Hassan. It was a nice change to be out of the everyday chaos and finally have quietness and open space ahead of us.

Tour Hassan

Started in 1195, the Tour Hassan was intended to be the largest minaret in the world as well as the mosque beside it. It was stopped when its builder died in 1199. This incomplete tower made of red sandstone reaches 44m, about half of the intended 86m height. 200 columns are still erected between the minaret and mosque, making great shade breaks for visitors.

Waterfront

The temptation of stopping for a homemade ice cream couldn’t be resisted as we passed a French café on the way back. Lisa splurged on a caramel, vanilla and  nougatine trio. I also opted for nougatine, then added strawberry sorbet and ferrero rocher. These frozen scoops melted their way in a happy-me. This Europpean delicacy was comforting and very much appreciated.

We glimpsed at kids pushing each other in the cold water. The brave ones attempted back flips and big stunts, at a hope to get an applause from the audience. I admired the couples walking slowly on the pathway, holding hands, contemplating the orange colours of the setting sun reflecting on the pink Kasbah.

 Kasbah of the Udayas

Just at the end of the seawall, at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river is located the Kasbah of the Udayas. An old kasbah build during the reign of the Almohads. It has been deserted since AH 595/AD1199.

A night in the waterfront

We met up with two of Lisa’s friends who’ve been travelling around and volunteering in South Africa. They came to meet up with her while passing through Morocco. We placed a rendez-vous at Le Dhow, a beautiful traditional sailboat that is now used as a lounge-restaurant. Mariah, a girl from our volunteer program also tagged along. It was refreshing to engage conversations with common subjects and interest with people from similar places. It was always a nice break for them to finally express themselves in a most common language. So there we were, vagabonds of the earth, meeting and sharing travel stories on an old wooden sailboat under the shimmering stars. As the full moon raised up in the dark sky, we cheered our taboo cocktails. An other beautiful African night.

We coulnd’t go back without jumping in the go carts. Each aboard a small car, we raced towards each other, bumping in one, crashing in the other.

If you have the munchies, there are a few independent stands selling a variety of snacks. Almonds, dates and cashews are inevitable to find. If you have a sweet tooth, follow the smell of cotton candy getting rolled and find the man with a stand on his bicycle also selling sticky apples on sticks.

Rabat Beach

The next day we walked along Rabat Beach. A numerous amount of amateur surfers tempted the white washes. The beach was busy with kids playing football, family gatherings, couple romancing. The mark of the tide came obvious with all the garbage washed ashore from the Atlantic.

At night, we ventured into a dark, smoky and dodgy bar near the train station. Lisa and I immediately stuck out as being the only females to appear in such a masculine environment. However, a couple of ladies were found upstairs, their bright red lips sucking on a cigarette, with the other hand holding a cocktail.

Meeting Dan and Chris was an inspiring encounter. Their project is amazing and I wish them the best. You can follow their work and journey by clicking on these links:

Celebrating Eid Al-Adha in Morocco

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Warning: This blog post contains images and descriptions that might not be suitable for some readers and some may find the content disturbing. If you do read, please have an open mind and the ability to understand a different culture. Thank you.

Every year, on the 10th day of the Islamic calendar’s last month, falls one of the two Muslim feast holiday: Eid Al-Adha. This Festival of Sacrifice is to honour the willingness of the prophet Abraham to sacrifice his son as an act of compliance to command. When the son accepted and the sacrifice was about to be performed, Allah stopped to provide Abraham with a lamb to kill instead. Muslim families from all around the world will sacrifice a sheep or a goat every year on that special religious holiday.

Today, on October 16th, 2013, I witnessed with my own eyes such an intimate and important religious ceremony.

My host family have been preparing for the feast all weekend. They made and baked the mkhamer (bread), dried and chopped the herbs, prepared side dishes of backoula (spinach salad), zarlouk (cooked eggplants) and khizou mchermel (spiced carrots). They sharpened the knife. They got the sheep.

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Sheep pushed in carts have been circulating all over town the past few days. Each Muslim family purchased a sheep or a goat and kept them on their outdoor terrace or home for a few days prior the sacrifice. The bleating of sheep was added to the sounds of prayer chanting at night.

Earlier this morning we went to the grandmother’s home where all the rest of the family reunited. Aunts, uncles, cousins, everybody was present as well as 2 students from Senegal. There were also 3 sheep, one for each small family.

Being part of the sacrifice was never planned. I didn’t research well prior my arrival and was unaware of this important holiday. When it was mentioned and described to me, I was put into a strange blend of anxiety and excitement. I’ve never witness death before, therefore this unique opportunity had to be taken with arms wide open. I am not a vegetarian back home, but I always prefer vegetables and fish over meat, by taste preference at first, and also because I don’t know where my meat comes from. It is not for health reasons, but rather for animal cruelty concern. I don’t agree with our meat industry and wished people would realize how much abuse is made towards animals. Being part of the sacrifice was going to be hard, but also a massive eye-opening experience.

Salt was thrown over the drain in the outdoor terrace. The first sheep was brought out. The butcher, after doing his prayer, put the ram on its side and caressed his back. With a sharp movement, he cut the throat. The blood sprayed out its vein. It died immediately. However, its legs shook as the blood tried to rush to the brain, and back and forth. Agony. I found myself in the mix of emotions and placed my sunglasses to hide the tears accumulating at the edge of my eyes. The blood squirting was overwhelming. The scene was perturbing. The death of a living was heart aching. But I held on. I was so fortunate to be there.

The butcher chopped the head off. And then came the hoofs. He sliced the bottom of one leg and blew air into the skin. The inert animal blew up like a balloon, making it easier to lacerate the skin from the muscle. When completely removed, the skin and wool is kept aside to later be cleaned and used as praying mats. The animal was then hoisted by the back legs. It was time for the belly to be carved. He removed the organs and placed them into a plastic basin. They were put aside for today’s BBQ and dinner.

The women took their shoes off and danced barefoot in the bath of blood. They then brushed and hosed the ground, the walls and the doors. We were ready for the second sheep…

And the third…

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Saving the most savoury part for the Friday’s cousous

A cousin grabbed my hand and hurried me inside the house. The Royal ceremony just started and was displayed on TV. The King performed a Sunnah prayer followed by a sermon. It was to Mohammed V, the King, to sacrifice the first sheep (the one for his palace). Then the butcher did the second one (for the country). Celebrations at the palace followed the sacrifice.

The smell of the charcoal burning under the grill dragged us outside.  I helped the younger ladies wrap the belly fat around pieces of liver and stab them on sticks to make kotbane (shishkabobs). The women marinated the lungs and the rest of the liver for the dinner later. As a tradition, the organs are eaten on the day of the sacrifice, the meat in tagines the next day and the head on the Friday’s couscous. 1/3 of the meat is kept for the family, another 1/3 to trade to neighbours and family and the rest goes to the poor and needy. From head to hoofs, nose to tail, everything is eaten.

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Tasty liver shishkabobs, charcoaled liver and heart and delicious couscous

The table was set outside with Moroccan blankets wrapped on its side to diminish the heat of the midday sun. Everybody grabbed a dish and placed it in the center of the table. We gathered for the feast. We laughed, smiled, spoke a mix of Arabic, French and English. A multi-ethnic lunch with various conversation from history to religion to simple joy talks. We spent the afternoon dancing on the rhythms of Arabic music. From the younger son to the grand-mother, everybody showed their moves on the living room floor. There was no time to sleep or be tired. It was time to celebrate.

More than 25 billion animals are killed by the meat industry each year. As soon as they are born, they are put in overcrowded cages, crates or stalls. They are deprived from exercise, sunlight and care. The average American meat-eater is responsible for the death of about 90 abused animal per year. Today I witnessed the raw death of 3 animals. However, these creatures had the best life a sheep could have. They were found in the mountains after living a life of running wild and free. They were brought to a home where they were given respect and care. They were killed quickly and efficiently. Yes, it was hard to see. But I’m glad I did.

This unique experience was given to me as an opportunity to open my eyes not only on another religion and culture, but also on mine.

“The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.”

-Gandhi, Indian spiritual leader

Insha’Allah!