Category: Asia
A Goan Retreat
Our 15-hour train ride from Mumbai to Goa was fantastic, but then it got delayed. We reached our destination very late at night, exhausted and desperately seeking a place to sleep. I opened my travel Bible (Lonely Planet) and spotted an affordable place on the beach. A rickshaw gave us a ride and stopped, pointing us at the sand: “Walk, walk.” We paid him the 150 INR, put on our packs, and started walking. The darkness hid the surroundings, and the waves secretly sang along our sides. After 5 minutes of sandy massages under our tired feet, we arrived at our cocohut in Benaulim Beach, Goa.
A peaceful morning melody transitioned from my dreams to awakening. The waves washing on the shore made my eyes open to a new day. Opening the door of my hut, I admired the scenic view in front of me. Finally, the beach and its sea! The vacation mode is here – a time for relaxation, beaching, swimming, tanning, snacking on fresh seafood, sipping tropical drinks, or simply doing nothing. After a month of traveling by local buses, chasing trains, navigating big city traffic, and crossing streets with our hearts in our hands, it’s nice to finally let go of any possible stress and rest.
Goa, nestled on the west side of India along the Arabian Sea, with its sandy beaches, cocohut culture, and laid-back residents, makes it a perfect destination for everyone. A mix of Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, and Catholicism is found here, along with Portuguese colonial architecture reflecting a rich history. Houses painted in purple, orange, green apple, yellow, and bright blue dot the landscape. Palm trees line the beaches, and the sea’s warm waters invite for a good swim. In the mornings, fishermen arrive on the beach with their enormous nets full of small fish, crabs, and sea snakes (yes, 4-foot sea snakes). The women fill their baskets with the creatures and carry them on their heads to be dried and then sold at the market. My eyes are amazed by this morning work and the team effort, with both males and females putting force and energy into every detail.
Another way to work towards relaxation is to get involved in some yoga. I booked a spot at a yoga retreat and dedicated my mornings and afternoons to meditation, yoga, and really good food. At Ashiyana Yoga in Mandrem Beach, they offer accommodation in a Mango Tree House, two yoga classes a day, and buffet meals (some of the best vegetarian food I’ve ever tasted). A retreat that drains bad energy, rejuvenates mind and body, and purifies the soul.
After these relaxing days at the retreat, we make our way back down to Benaulim, where we enjoy some drinks with Canadian tourists to celebrate Halloween. Our costumes evolve into question marks for the other guests, as we are the only ones dressed up for this occasion.
After a couple of days of chilling and simply doing nothing, we decide to migrate south and explore another area. So we make our way to Palolem Beach, where we spend a few days basking in the tropical sun. One morning, we meet with a fisherman and his son in their 21-foot wood outrigger. We cruise along some islands and explore the surroundings. Suddenly, our captain spots a dolphin and starts singing for joy and excitement! “Mary had a little lamb, little lamb, little lamb”! There it is, this beautiful aquatic creature gently caressing the surface of the water. And another one! And more! And dozens! They are everywhere! 50, maybe 100! “You’re lucky, my friends, you’re so lucky”! This is amazing! With a beating heart and shaking hands, we leave the fear in the boat and let our excitement jump in the water. I am so damn scared, but it is a great feeling. These wild dolphins are not very curious about us; they are more preoccupied by their search for breakfast. But the sensation of swimming in the middle of a large pod, in the open Arabian Sea under the light of the sunrise… wow, a $5 well spent indeed!
We spend our last days in Goa watching the kids getting ready for their annual festival. Diwali is a Hindu event celebrating the festival of lights, but everyone is welcomed to participate. People exchange gifts, sweet treats, and light candles and fireworks to guide Lord Rama home from exile. The houses are cleaned, and believers dress well, waiting for Lord Leksha (Goddess of Wealth) to come visit their house and hopefully bring good luck (money). Our last night in our hut in Palolem is noisy and very explosive. We yawn to the next day and pack our bags for Kerala.
Photos: Mumbai
The Growling City of Mumbai
After a grueling 26-hour train ride traversing India from Middle Northeast to West, we finally arrive in Mumbai, the country’s largest city with a staggering 16 million residents. Brace yourself for a city pulsating with energy: with 40,000 taxis in the downtown area and 120,000 tuk-tuks in the suburbs, Mumbai roars day and night in a chaotic rhythm. Open your eyes wide and let them witness the captivating contrast of social classes: from orphans playing by their slums along the train tracks to wealthy businessmen tirelessly working on their real estate endeavors.
As we stroll through the streets of Colaba, we seek out corner restaurants teeming with tourists, a blend of Westerners and South Indians. On the streets, incredibly young and undernourished children tap on your leg, pleading for some rice. “No money. Just rice, please.” How can you resist? Dinner leftovers are tenderly placed beside their sleeping bodies at the end of the night. Some very young ladies approach with a tiny doll in their arms, asking for milk. It takes a moment to realize that this miniature creature is, in fact, a real baby.
Taking advantage of our stay in a bustling metropolis, we decide to relax and immerse ourselves in the attractions it has to offer. Leisurely walks through the streets, exploring the myriad stands lining the sidewalks, and even a day at Mumbai’s Water Kingdom, the largest water park in Asia (packed with visitors but undeniably enjoyable). For the ladies, there’s a unique requirement to cover up in long-sleeved shirts and long tights – a departure from our usual attire, but a small price for the experience. As night falls, we cruise through the streets in search of a cozy place to eat. Jess and I are approached by an agent offering us roles in a Bollywood movie. A tempting invitation that we ultimately decline, choosing instead to enjoy a delightful dinner among friends with some delectable seafood and affordable wines.
A couple of days prove sufficient in the bustling city. We pack our bags, ready to leave for the serene beaches of Goa.
Photos: Varanasi
Varanasi: Holy City
Pinch me to wake me up. This feels like a dream, or perhaps I’ve stepped onto a movie set with scenes that are both haunting and poignant: lifeless bodies gently floating in the river, funeral pyres alight with the final journey of the departed, people bathing in and drawing from waters they consider divine, despite its visibly challenging condition. The potent smell, however, is a stark reminder that this is no illusion. It’s a poignant encounter with a culture profoundly different from our own. Our unfamiliarity contorts our expressions, a mix of contemplation and empathy. Our minds grapple with a wave of emotions. Yet, our eyes remain wide open, respectfully intrigued by the spectacle unfolding before us. Here we stand, in Varanasi, one of the world’s oldest inhabited cities and the holiest place for Hindus.
Varanasi graces the banks of the Ganges River in northern India, drawing over a million pilgrims annually. They come in search of prayers, to cleanse their sins in the sacred waters, and for some, even to meet their final moments on the riverbanks. For all, it is a profound journey. Shrines, temples, and palaces line the water’s edge, and nearly 100 ghats, formed by a series of stone steps, lead pilgrims to the river.
To absorb the surroundings, we opt for a rowboat to navigate the Ganges, our young oarsman providing brief insights into the significance of each ghat we pass. Our observations feel intimate, yet we strive to maintain a respectful distance. Families, Hindu pilgrims, Sadhus, buffalos, dogs, and goats all converge – bathing, purifying their bodies, and ritually cleansing themselves of a lifetime of sins in the sacred waters.
As I sit in the boat, hands tightly gripping the sides, I feel a gentle touch on my hand. Looking down, I see the lifeless body of a dog, eyes closed in peace, floating along the water. It’s a somber moment. I close my eyes, take a deep breath, and open them again to witness the broader scene. On one side, a man washes white hotel linens on the muddy shores. On the other, a woman sweeps away debris from one ghat into the river. Approaching the burning ghat, we witness a boat rowing towards the middle of the river. A father gently releases the wrapped bodies of a child and a baby into the water. It’s a deeply personal and culturally significant moment, where life and death intertwine.
The moon, full and radiant, casts its glow on the scene. Drifting in the middle of the Ganges, I’m captivated by the presence of lifeless bodies, spirits, and energies. I light a candle, make a quiet wish, and release it onto the river. Alongside countless others, it finds its own destiny, disappearing into the moonlit waters. Children sing prayers and clap bells on the stairs of a ghat, while a Sadhu performs a ritual ablution towards the moon. The burning ghat offers an intimate spectacle of death, with a dozen bodies being cremated before our eyes. Strangely, there’s no fear; instead, I am embraced by a unique and profound moment. Pure serenity.
An experience that will be etched into the canvas of my memory with deep respect and understanding.
Photos: Nepal
A Wild Ride
We left Agra (home of the beautiful Taj Mahal) at 10pm for a 15 hours train ride to Gorakpur. A long journey with the indian railways, we were glad we chose the 3rd class instead of the sleeper class. Arrived in Gorakpur, we transfer to a local bus (budget option) to make our way to the Nepalese border. A horrible sweaty, packed and absolutely annoying honking 4 hour ride. Exhausted from our 20 hour trip to the border, we arrived in Sunauli where we clear customs and enter Nepal. Not quite there yet. We jump on an other local bus, a 9 hour drive to final destination, Katmandu. We had no idea that we were about to step in the most memorable ride of our lives. Everything was supposed to go smoothly until the engine broke. Being the only english speaking in the bus, we had no idea of the next steps. We followed people outside, jumped on the roof of the bus to get our bags, then wait. And wait. And wait. We waited for about 2 hours in the darkest night of Nepal, with 40 Nepalis, in the middle of an empty road. Few buses drove by, but all full. Finally, one stopped and seemed like our fellows were rushing to it. Riot in front of the entrance. People climbing in the windows. We were the last one to get in, with our bags, stucked in the stairs of the bus. No more room. Really: no more room. We squeezed ourselves on the floor of the bus, tight between others stucked on the ground, amongst pee and sweat running down the alley… for 10 hours! On top of that, music playing all night! Definitely the worst ride of my life. We arrived slowly but surely and safely in Kathmandu. What a ride!
Footloose Diary 