The sun painted the golden sand in beautiful shades of bright orange and gentle pink. My scarf protected my head, shielding it from the intensity of the midday sun. We traveled through the Erg Chebbi dunes at a leisurely pace. My legs dangled on each side of his rib cage, six feet above the yellow sea of sand. He wasn’t the most comfortable ride, but I couldn’t complain—I was the one sitting on his back. His hooves softly brushed the sun-scorched sand. His lashes were long and thick. Sometimes he would turn towards me, requesting a scratch on his long woolen neck. His name was Africa, an athletic and elegant 21-year-old dromedary, a worker of the desert.
When my mom announced that she would meet me in Morocco after I completed my volunteering program, I was eager to explore the rest of the country with her. My mother is my favorite travel partner—cultivated, worldly, and well-traveled. She always seeks the best ways to fully immerse herself in the local culture. At 63 years old, she was ready to hop on local buses, eat from street stalls, ride a dromedary through the desert, and even try camel milk. Since I had already covered the northern part of the country, including Rabat, Fes, and Chefchaouen, we decided to meet in Marrakech.My mom had visited Morocco before and didn’t want me to leave the country before experiencing the Great South. So, after a detour to Essaouira, we headed south and embarked on a five-day road trip through the High Atlas Mountains, all the way to the gateway of the Sahara Desert.
Day 1: Marrakech to Zagora
We could have rented a car and done the drive ourselves since the roads are well-maintained and fairly easy to navigate. However, to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip, we chose to hire a local driver. We were introduced to Hocine, a young, knowledgeable, and hardworking Berber who would be our chauffeur on our journey to Ouarzazate.
We set off from Marrakech early in the morning, heading south towards Zagora. The two Kasbahs we visited along the way were just as impressive as the drive itself. The winding road through the Atlas Mountains was breathtaking, with its earthly peaks and vast dunes forming a stunning backdrop. The lunar landscape was adorned with a variety of fruit trees, such as olives, oranges, lemons, dates, and figs, adding vibrant colors to the scenery. We even spotted Berbers and their goats climbing the mountains, searching for a meal and occasionally causing rocks to tumble onto the paved road. As we traveled, I caught glimpses of men riding donkeys for long distances, artists showcasing their handmade pottery and crafts, and vendors selling fascinating fossils and mineral rocks from the Atlas region.
As we journeyed through the High Atlas Mountains, Hocine enlightened us about the origin of the term “Berber.” It was historically attributed to the earliest inhabitants of the Barbary Coast of North Africa. The term itself derived from the Greek word “bárbaros,” which originally referred to any foreigner and later became the root of the derogatory term “barbarian.” Hocine further shared that the Berbers prefer to call themselves Imazighen, which translates to “Free People” in the indigenous Tamazight language.
Upon reaching Zagora, we were greeted by Ismael, our 16-year-old camel guide. In the obscurity of the night, he led us on our camels through a landscape reminiscent of scenes from Star Wars. With no control over our animals and having left our belongings in the car (as we were instructed to only bring the essentials), we placed our complete trust in this courteous young boy. What was initially anticipated as a 20-minute camel ride turned into an hour-long journey through the lunar landscape, guided solely by the darkness of the night. Eventually, we arrived at the bivouac, where we nervously laughed about the unexpected adventure and felt a sense of relief that we had safely made it to the camp.
We were warmly welcomed by fellow travelers gathered around the campfire. Tea was served, and we engaged in conversations with the Imazighen. A delightful couscous was prepared and served in the main tent. Chanting and dancing ensued around the bonfire, with our feet sinking into the sand as the moon ascended into the starry sky. It was a magical experience that left us in awe.
Day 2: Sunrise camel trek in Zagora
When Ismael softly whispered, “It’s time,” at the entrance of our tent, the clock hadn’t even struck 6 am. There was no room for sleeping in or hitting the snooze button for another 15 minutes. We had a mission to fulfill. Hastily, I donned my hoodie, wrapped my scarf snugly around my neck, and clutched my camera tightly. Barefooted, I stepped out of the tent and ascended the nearest dune.
There, perched atop the sandy mound, were fellow early risers. Wrapped in blankets, their cameras mounted on tripods, they eagerly awaited the unfolding scene. I gazed toward the horizon, where the vast expanse of sand met the distant mountains. And then, between two jagged peaks, I saw it: the first rays of the sun, piercing through the serene blue morning light.
As the sun gradually ascended in the sky, we made our way back to our waiting vehicle. It was a comforting sight to find Hocine and all our belongings safely waiting for us. Climbing back into the car, we embarked on our journey towards Mergouza.
Day 3: Entering the gateway of the Sahara in Mergouza
I was introduced to Africa, my loyal camel companion. Passing through the gateway of the Sahara, we began an enchanting and thrilling two-hour expedition through the tranquil dunes of Erg Chebbi.
We reached the bivouac just in time to witness the mesmerizing sunset. Disembarking from Africa’s back, my feet sank into the refreshing, shaded sand. As a gesture of gratitude, I scratched Africa’s head, providing him with a momentary respite from the persistent flies buzzing around his face.
Driven by excitement, I challenged myself to a sprint, racing with all my might towards the peak of the tallest dune in anticipation of witnessing a truly awe-inspiring sunset. Despite having witnessed countless sunsets over oceans, mountains, and cities, this upcoming spectacle was a new experience for me. Patiently, I stood there, taking in the breathtaking view of an endless expanse of sand dunes. The scarf that had shielded my head now draped over my shoulders, providing a touch of warmth. Gradually, the sun sank behind the dunes, bringing a refreshing coolness to the air and allowing the moon to claim its reign over the night sky.
Exquisitely crafted Imazighen carpets adorned the sandy floor in front of each tent, adding a touch of beauty and cultural richness to the desert camp. A low table, covered with handmade blankets, was carefully arranged, surrounded by soft cushions for added comfort. The chameliers took charge of preparing and serving a delectable dinner, treating us to a mouthwatering traditional couscous accompanied by the authentic flavors of Moroccan mint tea. As the evening unfolded, the camp was illuminated by the gentle flicker of candlelight, creating an intimate ambiance in the heart of the desert. With the soft sand beneath us and the African sky sparkling above, we enjoyed a truly memorable dining experience amidst the serene beauty of the desert.
Following dinner, I engaged in a friendly race with Hocine, sprinting towards the summit of a nearby dune. Reaching the top, we settled ourselves on the cool sand, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the captivating spectacle of shooting stars illuminating the night sky. The vast expanse of the Greater Sahara provided the perfect backdrop for this mesmerizing display, as we sat in awe, contemplating the wonders of the universe above us.
Day 4: Todra Gorge in Tinerhir and the Road of the Thousand Kasbahs
Witnessing the sunrise over the desert was a breathtaking way to commence the day. With a renewed sense of wonder, I mounted Africa and together we began our journey back towards civilization, leaving behind the serene beauty of the desert as we embarked on our return.
On our way to Tinerhir, while en route to explore the Todgha Gorge, I suddenly felt a sharp pain in my stomach. Even a sip of water became impossible to swallow, and with every turn, my nausea intensified. To make matters worse, as a woman, I was denied access to any bathrooms along the way. When we finally reached our guesthouse, I retired to my room for the night. Meanwhile, my mom dined alone downstairs, sharing the tale of my illness with fellow travelers. I remained bedridden, plagued by severe dizziness. Thankfully, the kindness of the guesthouse host came to my rescue, as they brought me Vervaine tea and some rice. Without their thoughtfulness, I would have gone without food for three days. Although weak, I managed to rest and miraculously finished the tea after taking a single bite of rice.
The next morning, as I entered the dining room, I was met with concerned inquiries from everyone about my well-being. I am grateful for my mom’s support throughout the ordeal.
Unfortunately, due to a misunderstanding and language barrier between our guide, driver, and ourselves, we ended up missing the opportunity to visit the Todgha Gorge—an immense disappointment for me. Instead, we were taken to an Imazighen women’s carpet factory, where our guide strongly encouraged us to make a purchase. This created a discomforting situation, as it felt like we were imposing on the hardworking women. I have encountered this scenario before. When traveling abroad, I always strive to support local communities and encourage merchants, often beyond what I can afford. Respectfully, I declined the offers. However, the guide turned to my mom, who felt so bad that she ended up buying an expensive carpet that she will likely never use. Oh, mom! These situations unfortunately occur frequently when traveling in foreign countries where tourism can have complex effects on the local population. The best we can do is remain kind while standing our ground. And if we do give in, at least the souvenir becomes part of a laughable (in hindsight) story.
Continuing our journey, we embarked on the “Road of the Thousand Kasbahs,” a scenic route that unveiled a breathtaking tapestry of desert landscapes, majestic snow-capped mountains, and lush palm groves. Along the way, we made a stop at El Kelaa M’gouna, also known as the Valley of the Roses”. Here, we had the opportunity to purchase rose water spray bottles, a delightful souvenir that would make perfect gifts to bring back home. The fragrant essence of the roses added an extra touch of beauty to our memorable adventure.
Day 5: Wrapping up in Ouarzazate
Stepping into the ancient Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou., built in the 11th century, I felt as if time had come to a standstill. The walls, constructed from red mudbrick, enclosed a labyrinth of dwellings, souvenir stalls, and captivating viewpoints. While the majority of the residents have now relocated to a more contemporary village on the opposite side of the river, eight families still call this fortified city their home. The blend of history and modern life created an intriguing atmosphere, immersing me in the rich cultural heritage of the region.
Our final destination was the Atlas Studio, renowned for being the filming location of numerous Hollywood blockbusters and famous movies. Despite the gusty winds and sand swirling around us, we ventured through the impressive sets and backdrops.
Upon our return to Marrakesh, we expressed our heartfelt gratitude to Hocine and provided him with a generous tip for his exceptional service as our knowledgeable, reliable, and caring chauffeur. His presence has truly enriched our journey, and we sincerely wish him all the best. Reflecting on our time in the Great South of Morocco, we realized what an extraordinary adventure it has been. Sharing this remarkable experience with my mother has made it even more special, creating memories that we will cherish forever.
For more information about the excursion and trips similar to this one, check out Click Excursion.
Footloose Diary 